Super 100s to Super 200s: The Complete Wool Grade Guide for Suit Retailers

I watched a client lose a $3,200 sale once. The customer was ready to buy — a navy two-piece for his wedding. He asked one question: "What's the difference between Super 120s and Super 150s?"

The tailor's answer was "The 150s is better. Finer wool."

The client hesitated. "Finer" sounded fragile to him, like something that wouldn't survive a dance floor. He walked out. The tailor didn't lose that sale because of price or fit — he lost it because he couldn't explain the fabric.

If you sell custom suits, fabric language isn't optional. It's the difference between a client who trusts your recommendation and one who Googles it on their phone while you're talking. This guide is for anyone who wants to speak about wool the way a sommelier speaks about wine — with precision, confidence, and just enough poetry to make the sale.

The Super Number System: What It Actually Means

The "Super" designation (e.g., Super 100s, Super 150s) refers to the fineness of the wool fiber, measured in microns. A higher Super number means a finer, lighter, softer fiber — but also a more delicate fabric.

Super Grade	Fiber Diameter (microns)	Feel	Durability	Best For
Super 100s	~18.5	Smooth, durable	★★★	Daily business suits, corporate uniforms
Super 110s-120s	~18.0	Soft, refined	★★★	Premium business suits, year-round wear
Super 130s-140s	~17.5	Luxurious, silky	★★	Executive suits, special occasions
Super 150s	~17.0	Ultra-fine, buttery	★	Boardroom suits, events, cooler months
Super 180s-200s	≤16.5	Gossamer-light	★	Red carpet, weddings, collectors

Key trade-off: Higher Super = softer and more luxurious, but wrinkles more easily and wears out faster. For corporate clients who wear suits daily, Super 100s-120s is often the practical choice. For partners attending gala events, Super 150s+ makes a statement.

Fabric Weight (GSM) Explained

Weight matters as much as grade. GSM (grams per square meter) determines how the suit drapes and in what seasons it can be worn:

• 200-250 GSM — Summer weight. Breathable, light, less structured. Ideal for tropical climates and summer weddings.
• 250-300 GSM — All-season weight. The sweet spot for most business suits. HARCHOY's NISHIOKA 70% wool fabric sits at 275 GSM — versatile year-round.
• 300-400 GSM — Winter weight. Heavier drape, holds shape beautifully, retains warmth. Perfect for overcoats and cold-climate suits.

Wool Types: Not All Wool Is Created Equal

Merino Wool

The gold standard for suiting. Merino sheep produce the finest, softest wool with excellent natural elasticity. The best Merino comes from Australia and New Zealand. Expect to pay a premium, but the drape and comfort justify it.

Cashmere

Lighter, warmer, and softer than sheep's wool — but less durable. Often blended with wool (10-30% cashmere) to add luxury without sacrificing structure. Pure cashmere suits exist but are rare and expensive.

Mohair

From Angora goats. Crisp, lustrous, and wrinkle-resistant. Often blended with wool for summer suits. The natural sheen makes it popular for formal evening wear.

Hemp & Linen Blends

HARCHOY's Milano pure hemp series represents the growing demand for sustainable, breathable fabrics. Hemp is durable, eco-friendly, and develops character with wear. Ideal for the sustainability-conscious market.

Fabric Origin: Why the Mill Matters

The mill that produces the fabric is just as important as the fiber composition. Here are the mills HARCHOY sources from:

• NISHIOKA Orimono (Japan) — Precision 70% wool fabrics at 275 GSM. Japanese mills are known for consistency and innovative weaving techniques.
• Loro Piana (Italy) — The pinnacle of luxury. Certified access through HARCHOY's supplier network.
• Milano (Italy) — World-leading hemp fabric specialists. Double-warp, double-weft for superior texture.

When your clients ask about fabric origin, naming a specific mill builds instant credibility. "This is Japanese wool from NISHIOKA Orimono" sounds fundamentally different from "this is wool."

How to Guide Clients Through Fabric Selection

1. Ask about their lifestyle — Do they travel? Present? Sit at a desk? The answer determines durability needs.
2. Ask about their climate — A Super 150s suits executive in London? Perfect. Same suit in Singapore? Uncomfortable.
3. Show, don't tell — Let them touch Super 100s and Super 150s side by side. The difference sells itself.
4. Explain the trade-off honestly — Clients appreciate honesty. "Super 150s feels incredible, but you'll get more wears from Super 120s for daily use."

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